{"id":2427,"date":"2013-06-27T09:13:03","date_gmt":"2013-06-27T13:13:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/?p=2427"},"modified":"2013-06-27T11:13:42","modified_gmt":"2013-06-27T15:13:42","slug":"scalloped-collar-tutorial","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/?p=2427","title":{"rendered":"Scalloped Collar Tutorial"},"content":{"rendered":"<p style=\"text-align: left;\">One of the details that I really enjoyed sewing on my recently completed <a href=\" https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/?p=2534\">1950s cherry print dress<\/a> was the scalloped sailor collar. \u00a0I finished the edges with narrow piping, which helps to define the edge of the collar and set it off from the dress fabric.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar tutorial\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/cherry-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">This tutorial will show you how to sew piped scallops. \u00a0The examples show a collar but you can use piped scallops to good effect on a hem, around a sleeve cuff or even down the centre front of a garment. \u00a0Lots of possibilities for personalization. \ud83d\ude42<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Here&#8217;s what you&#8217;ll need:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>1&#8243; wide bias strips (for garments with 3\/8&#8243; seam allowances) or 1 1\/2&#8243; strips (for garments with 5\/8&#8243; s.a.)<\/li>\n<li>#3 crochet cotton or similar fine piping cord<\/li>\n<li>lightweight interfacing appropriate to your fabric<\/li>\n<li>sewing thread in two colours &#8211; one to match the bias strips, the other to match the collar or garment fabric<\/li>\n<li>pins<\/li>\n<li>sewing needles or fabric basting glue<\/li>\n<li>tracing wheel and dressmaker&#8217;s tracing paper<\/li>\n<li>pin tuck foot to fit your sewing machine<\/li>\n<li>iron<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-345 aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-4.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\"><strong>Directions<\/strong><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\"><strong>1. <\/strong>With thread that matches the bias strips, make the mini-piping by encasing the #3 crochet cotton inside the bias strip (L 1.8-2.0). \u00a0The raw edges of the bias strips should meet and your stitching should be approximately a needle-width (1\/32&#8243;) from the filling. \u00a0 Keep the crochet cotton in the centre grove of the pintuck foot as you stitch. \u00a0 Make enough piping to fit the circumference of your project.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-345 aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-5.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">2. \u00a0Now, prepare your fabric. \u00a0Cut two pieces of fabric at least 2-3&#8243; larger on all sides than the pattern piece. \u00a0Interface the wrong side of <em>one<\/em> of the pieces with a lightweight knit or German interfacing. \u00a0You want to add stability, not stiffness.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">3. \u00a0Lay the non-interfaced fabric square out, right side up. \u00a0 Lay the dressmaker&#8217;s tracing paper on top, chalk side down. \u00a0Lay the pattern piece on top. \u00a0Carefully pin the layers together.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\"><em>Tip: \u00a0If you are drawing the scallops yourself, it is easier to stitch scallops that have a wide, shallow profile. \u00a0Scallops or curves that are very tight or very small will require you to stop and pivot frequently and it make be difficult to create distinct points where the scallops meet if the angle is too acute. \u00a0 If you are using a pattern that already has pattern piece(s) with scallops and are finding them difficult to navigate, redraw the scallops until they are sized so that you are comfortable sewing them. \u00a0The scallops on the vintage collar were approximately 1\/2&#8243; deep and 1 3\/4&#8243; wide.<\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">4. \u00a0Trace all the cutting and sewing lines with the marking wheel. \u00a0Transfer any notches or alignment indicators, too. \u00a0<em>Tip: \u00a0If your pattern doesn&#8217;t indicate the sewing line, mark it with a pencil and a ruler on the pattern before tracing it off. <\/em><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-2.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">Here is a close-up of the marked scallops, ready for the piping to be laid on.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-3.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">5. \u00a0Beginning at the mid-point, pin the piping in place. \u00a0The piping should just cover the sewing line; the raw edges should meet the cutting line. \u00a0You will need to notch the piping so that it will lie smoothly around the curves. \u00a0Cut up to but not through the stitching every 3\/8&#8243; or so (it will vary depending on the size of your scallops). \u00a0At the sharp points, pinch the piping hard to create a distinct point and overlap the tabs, pinning in place. \u00a0Take your time laying out the piping.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-345 aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-6.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">6. \u00a0Now, baste the piping in place. \u00a0You can use a needle and thread and stitch a line of running stitch to secure the piping. \u00a0Alternatively, if you have it on hand, Roxanne&#8217;s Glue Baste-It works very well and has a very precise, durable hold. \u00a0I used Roxanne&#8217;s. \u00a0If you don&#8217;t have the specialty basting glue, go with the needle and thread method; a regular glue stick will not be secure enough. \u00a0 You will be manipulating this fabric block a lot during the stitching and you don&#8217;t want the piping to move as you pivot and navigate. When you have finished basting the piping, it will look like this.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-345 aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-7.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">7. \u00a0Stitch the piping down using your pintuck foot. \u00a0(L 1.8-2.0) If you have a needle down function, engage it. \u00a0Lift the foot and pivot as necessary to follow the curves, letting the piping ride in the centre groove. \u00a0At the points, stitch into the corner as closely as possible. \u00a0Leave the needle in the fabric, lift the foot and pivot to meet the next scallop.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-345 aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-8.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">8. \u00a0This is what the scallops will look like from the wrong side after they have been stitched down. \u00a0You can see the sharp point at the intersection of each scallop.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-345 aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-9.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">9. \u00a0Lay the interfaced fabric square out, with the fabric side facing up. \u00a0Lay the piped layer on top, wrong side up, so that the piping is sandwiched in between. \u00a0Pin the two layers together.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-345 aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-10.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">10. \u00a0Change your thread to match the garment fabric. \u00a0With the pin tuck foot still in place, move your needle position so that it is approximately 1 \/16&#8243; to the left (the number of increments will depend on the sensitivity of your machine). \u00a0Stitch around the scallops. \u00a0(L 1.8-2.0) The piping should ride in the centre groove and your stitching line should be just outside the stitching line that secured the piping. \u00a0Lift and pivot as necessary to get the smoothest line.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-345 aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-11.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">11. \u00a0Trim as close to the second stitching line as possible. \u00a0Your seam allowance should be approximately 1\/8&#8243;. \u00a0Clip the scallop points. \u00a0Cut right up to the first stitching line. \u00a0This will ensure the sharpest possible angles when you turn the scallops right side out.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-345 aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-12.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">12. This is what the collar looked like after trimming and prior to being turned right sides out. \u00a0I generally treat the interfaced side as the upper collar and the non-interfaced side as the under-collar, but which side you deem &#8216;the outside&#8217; will depend on your application.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-345   aligncenter\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-13.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\">13. \u00a0Turn the collar right side out and press. \u00a0Take your time with this step. \u00a0Use a point turner or other pointy but dull object like a cuticle stick or chop stick to gently ease the curved scallops into shape. \u00a0Working from the centre out, I steamed and shaped one side and then the other. \u00a0At this point, the collar is ready to be inserted into the dress.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"scalloped collar\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/scallop-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: left;\">14. \u00a0Here is the finished collar, inserted on the cherry print dress. \u00a0The scallops are smooth, the piping is fully exposed and the points are crisp.<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align: center;\"><img decoding=\"async\" title=\"scalloped collar tutorial\" src=\"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/cherry-10.jpg\" alt=\"\" \/><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>One of the details that I really enjoyed sewing on my recently completed 1950s cherry print dress was the scalloped sailor collar. \u00a0I finished the edges with narrow piping, which helps to define the edge of the collar and set it off from the dress fabric. This tutorial will show you how to sew piped [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[40],"tags":[199,201,198,200,115],"class_list":["post-2427","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-tutorial","tag-collar","tag-pin-tuck-foot","tag-piping","tag-scalloped","tag-sewing-for-children-2"],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2427","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=2427"}],"version-history":[{"count":5,"href":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2427\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":2560,"href":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/2427\/revisions\/2560"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=2427"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=2427"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/www.clairemeldrum.ca\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=2427"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}